In a time where fashion perhaps should’t be called fashion anymore, but some parallel ideas and expressions, it might be silly to try and offer common references across these. But after having studied the collections for the season, some mutual ideas was so clearly appearing, that they must be called trends. I take pleasure in finding these, despite the fact that fashion has tarted becoming a negativley charged word. That’s also why I don’t offer this review to make you think this is something you have to be steered by. I write it to give you new inspiration! Perhaps you’ll remember that dress you hung in the attic, 10 years ago, or the suit that is gathering dust at the back of your closet. Go treasure hunting in you own wardrobe and see what you can put together in a new way! Below you’ll find plenty of inspiration to get you going. Good luck!
Volumes, oversize, pleats and gathers
Did you see the TV-series “Killing Eve”. It’s not often a series is mentioned ahead of a new fashion season, but in this instance its relevant. The series crazy murderess, the magnetic, psychopath Vilanelle, is appearing in so many memorable outfits that she has to appear here. In this context there is particularly one scene that is highly topical: The lady is wearing such a fluffy, pink confection that you nearly miss the actual action. Vilanelly herself, on the other hand, is so above her own fashion-forweardness, that the majority of the female viewers end wanting nothing less that to be that cool. One has to assume that it is exactly that kind of attitude the designers behind the brand Rodarte want you to adopt. In 2019, its not possible to dress in such a fluffy, girly and theatrical trend, without assuming a certain I’m-so-above-it attitude. In a sea of jeans, T-shirts and suits, there is not much that require more courage than meters upon meters os tulle, colours and flounce.
How to style this? Start with a top that is popping, but make sure the volume fits you. If you have a big bust, discard those that covers you completely. They will only make you look big. Instead, try looking for A-shapes with volumes around the hips, or those with volume around sleeves and shoulders. If you, on the other hand, are straight and boyish, please go ahead and try the covering versions. If you are of the brave kind, you can go all-in and wear a dress à-la Vilanelle. But my tip is to style it with opaque tights or other tough accessory. In that way you tone down the Barbie references and end with a look that says Vilanelle, not ballerina.
I can barely remember having seen as much focus on roses as in this particular season. You find them in all possible variations, from sewn-on 3D flowers – and those are plentiful – to oversized prints and embroideries. There is just one version to avoid, and that is grandmas buttoned-up, prissy versions. In 2019 it is bold & beautiful that matters. Not unlike a woman that is in height of blooming.
3D flowers is challenging to produce and therefore expensive. Hence it might not be easy to find versions of these on the highstreet, if you’re not willing to put a hefty sum on the table. If, however, you are dexterous, you can make your own roses à la Prada, and sew them onto a black dress you’ve grown tired of, or make appliqués in the same style. Did you know that there are printers out that that can print you favourite motif onto a garment? Check them out and see what you can do toghter. Alternatively try mixing several flower motifs together. Chances are, you’ll then achieve something wild and beautiful – not sweet and dusty.
Are colourclouds, volumes and girlie references giving you slight nausea? Then black is a safe haven to return to. It is strict, sober and immediately gives you a sense of authority. But if you think that anonymity is secured under this umbrella, you are mistaken. Here is drama, puls and focus on quality and craftsmanship is playing the lead role. So if you want to be invisible, look elsewhere. The collection that probably best describe this drama, is Alexander McQueens, that I wrote about here her.
An obvious tip, if you’re looking for a monochrome style, like all black, is to style different textures together. Shiny against rough, leather with lace etc. But that might sound like something you’ve heard before? Me, on my part, I have plans to sew a long sweeping skirt, that I will style with the long black coat I have hanging in my closet. In that way I’ll get a bit of the drama that McQueen and Prada was showing for the season, and that I’m looking forward to.
For you that simply love lace, romance and feminine elegance, feathers are your new, best friend. No, I’m not thinking about the cheap-boa-from-the-toystore-style, but a sophisticated take on natures own décor, that floats as easily around your body as on the birds themselves. Where you would go for lace in the warm season, you should now go for feather details instead. This is not a style you go for for your dailies, but is is all the more beautiful for the party.
Like those 3D roses, it will not be easy finding inexpensive feather designs. But don’t despair. Well assorted fabric stores will have feather bands in their assortement, and those you can have a lot of fun with, as they don’t requite a lot of sewing skills. And should you have a lot of spare time on you hand, you can buy it in large quantities and decorate a whole dress, like Marc Jacobs has done above.
To me, red is not a fashion colour. It is always there, just as much as black is it. But in some seasons it becomes more prominent than others, and then it is worth a special mention. When such vastly different designers as Rodarte and Balenciaga opt for all-red outfits, it is with more than a notice.
As you can see from the above: red looks fantastic in everything from strict suits, shiny leather jackets and floating evening gowns. Some of you, however are scared of red and think it doesn’t suit you. This is both true and untrue. As with any other colour this shade can be either cold or warm, bright, or more subdued. In practice, this means that those of you that have a golden skin-undertone should look for reds that has more yellow than blue in it, and vise versa for you that have a blue’ish undertone (look for everything from Christmas red to pink). Further, the intensity – meaning how much pigment is in the colour – will determine which version suit you best. Red is so beautiful that it is worth a bit of research to find your version. Do!
There are several other commonalities in the collections I haven’t mentioned here. The sporty 90s trend with low waist, cropped tops and tracksuits is one of them, while the trapeze shape is another. But, since I’m simply so over the 90’s that I cannot but leave it to my daughters, and those wide skirts are so everywhere, I choose not to focus on them. But, fall and winter is long so don’t be surprised if I pull them out my sleeve at some later stage.
Have an inspired fashion-fall!