Oslo Runway 2017 has just finished and it’s time for a summary. I saw less than half the collections, but what I witnessed was really worth my time. Oslo Runway has managed to showcase almost all the most important designers and get the attention of the most influential press in Norway. Both in combination is quite new in Norway.
The collections I saw have all a true DNA, but also, surprisingly, quite a few things in common. The color sense is the most striking one. From the newcomer Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen to maybe the most experienced of them all, Cathrine Hammel, there was a red thread in the choice of colors. If these collections are anything to go by, we should all be wearing different hues of spicy browns and light blues in combination with cream, white and navy, next summer. Below are my reviews
According to Marte Kveli Waleberg behind the brand MagMaLou, next summer will be an easy breeze of marine stripes, floaty fabrics, and american references. Her collections has a definitive sporty edge to it, with lose spaghetti straps, teamed with light jerseys and crisp white cotton. It is, however her pantsuits that gives the strongest impression. These come in several different versions and are really the strong point of her collection. Marthe knows how what her customer wants, and for that she has build a name for herself in record time. Congratulations!
BIK BOK award winner Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen
The BOK NOK award managed to produce a real fashion moment this week. There were five young designer contestants, and they were all there in their own right. There were, however, two that stood out in particular. The first was the winner, Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen. Her collection was an intricate mix of business-clothes references, feminine frills and drapes, in combination with deconstructed separates. She still somehow managed to keep all these references in check, ending up with a very strong, yet wearable collection. Her color sense added punch to an already strong concept.
I first became aware of Edda Gimnes, the young designer behind the brand EDDA, at a fashion talk here in Oslo about a year ago. A while before that she was picked out as one of ten most promising young designers at the moment, by NY Times. In Oslo she talked about her struggle with strict teachers and rules and how that challenged her whole conviction about fashion and art. Her collection is a true tale of that struggle. It takes big talent to make doodles and scribbling into interesting patterns and even fit of garments. This girl made that work – and then some! Her collection is playful, modern, edgy and even wearable, all at once. EDDA was truly the biggest fashion moment of the week.
PS – Please search online for better picture-coverage of her collection.
Cathrine Hammel has been in the Norwegian fashion business for over a decade, and has build a strong name for herself, through a quiet success of design and craftsmanship. That is by no chance a coincidence. Her collections are always strong, with a true recognizable eye to detail, silhouette and proportions. This collections celebrates all things Hammel: A delicate, yet edgy color scheme and strong graphic silhouettes teamed with girly, floaty layers of chiffon and drapings. She manages to make her collection wearable and utterly desirable by keeping everything finely tuned, never tipping over the edge of too hard nor soft. My absolute favorite this season!
The Dress is the ultimate by TiMo item. And for good reason. After the brand started their collaboration with vintage queen Pia Tjelta, the brand that started out as a basics provider, has made a big name for itself, both in Norway and internationally. This collection cemented that position, and more. Here are printed dresses in abundance, tops, romance, and pretty girliness all around. Anyone looking for a romantic dress for next year’s fancy garden party, or a summer wedding should look no further. There are maybe a few too many patterns to make the collection as recognizable as it potentially could be, but other than that there are a large number of want-items to add to anyones wish-list
Synnøve Mo has been around for a while. Her musical, female sensitivity is always evident in her collections, and this one is no exception. This time she teamed up with Hanne Friis, an artist and designer who has special-dyed the textiles in her collection, using only natural material. The result is sophisticated, feminine and very wearable, yet with that little edge and eye to details one always look for. Her collections transcends age and body types and for that I see no reason for Synnøve Mo to work alone at this point. There should be people in the Norwegian fashion business with enough business sense to build her brand into a bigger on.