Oslo runway has just ended. A total of 19 shows has been shown, either as a single brand or as co-labs. I’m covering only 6 of these (8 designer in total), so this is just a peak into the circus. With my background as a designer I go to the job of reviewing these collections with utmost respect. I know really well how much work that goes into productions like these.
In my eyes, Iben was the show with the most obvious street-appeal. The collection was edgy, but with a clear commercial touch still. The suits, pants and coats had a great fit and was just as sharp as one could want. The colorscale, with its mix of dusty earth and ocean colors was accompanied by a pulsating orange and a sharp cornflower-blue, that tighter added to the edge of the collection. Raw styling, casting and hair was a final great touch
LINE OF OSLO
Lines collections are selling in a large scale and are loved by many. Her forte is her flair for bestsellers and the insight into what her customers want. A a designer myself, I’m looking for a bit ore of a red thread however. Here one wants a lot, but that also means that one looses a bit of the collection-feel. The red dress, the satin-ensembles and the oversized sweaters are strong products however, and something we should expect to see on many this coming fall.
Tom Wood has not existed longer than since 2013, but has since then managed to stand on solid ground both internationally and back home in Norway. The success is no coincidence. The brand is easily recognisable from season to season due to its strictness and mix of masculine and feminine references, both in the mens and women collections. This time the same beautiful color-palette was used for both genders, with the intense purple as a obvious peak. The designer(s) was also not afraid to play with proportions or materials, but rather added character by adding the length of the coats to the floor. Bravo! The collection feels very now, both in terms of silhuett and materials, whilst at the same time holding the banner of usability high. The show itself was accompanied by pulsating rythms, high tempo and dramatic lighting. The result was drama with a sexy edge ( – but, alas, were difficult for a photographer without special seating to play with).
Admir is, by and by, becoming a senior in the Norwegian fashion business. He has held several shows these last years, but has, in an impressive manner, been able to create a signature that is strong and easily recognisable. Here, art and design goes hand-in-hand, while the concept always is the main objective. This collection was no exception. The clothes were exhibited on “live dolls”, the materials were intricate, tactile and with striking use of color, while the designs themselves swung between pure work of art and highly usable products. The ambiance in Gallery Riis was almost sacral with the colourful “dolls” against the white backdrop and colourful art. I was impressed, and I was not alone in that. (And it was lovely finally being able to take some decent photos)
MAUD OG FRAM
This brand launched last year, but where other brands might struggle with some growing pains before the concept sements itself, the funders behind this brand obviously has muscle enough to manage a production where problems like these are (seemingly) not an issue. Here, the storytelling and muses, as well as ambition, are placed high. That makes a designer-heart happy. In the mens collection, the designers stayed true to the Fram name (the ship of Nansen) and underscored it, both in designs and styling. Here there were short-legged trousers in a wide array, but one leaned more towards velour than that thick wool of yesteryears. And hail to that. The color-palette, especially in the Maud collection, was sophisticated and appetising, with plays of 3-tone colors as well as accentcolors. The styling is strong and interesting, while at the same time not stealing attention from the designs themselves. The evening dresses impressed me as well. One thing is to succeed with the fit of a trouser or coat, it’s quite another to be successful with the same thing whilst handling a narrow evening-gown in satin. But here both the choice of material and the fit itself played together to a beautiful whole and finale to a great show.
DESIGNERS IN OSLO
Designers in Oslo, Is a side project to Oslo runway, but all the same showing under their program. All hour to them for that! Here on found 8 designers (and on co-lab), that all were showing during a packed program of 2 hours at Kulturhuset in Oslo, sadly I dint have the time to cover all these shows, and for that I a truly sad. Below is my selection
FLESH (Malin Molden)
The force behind the DIO is Malin Molden. And if one is to judge by the energy-level and general playfulness of her own collection, that is a very good thing. Her collection, called “Betty White and The Justise league” is bubbling over of with surplus, storytelling and luxuriant, burlesque designs. The use of details or styling has nothing on this one! The entirety of it all can possibly feel a bit overwhelming to a frail soul, but placed together with strict basics, these designs would live very well on a dedicated user. I wish her a long life in the business.
BLACK RAT(Siri Sveen Haaland)
Sirs univers is hard. raw and a bit brutal at fist sight. But if you take a closer look, behind the raw styling, you find garments in beautiful materials and exquisite craftmaship. Here there are meter upon meter og details one normally only find in traditional hand seaming, knobbly (or is it boiled or both) materials and beautiful wool-works. The designer obviously doesn’t want to cater to ForgetmeFranny, but those there are enough of, after all. Black Rat is for those who are still nurturing a bit of punk inside, and those I hope she reaches.
HERNUDE (Julie Slåtsveen Johansen
The road to a place in the fashion business is tough and demands a fair bit of courage. So when a nearly fresh-out-of-school is embarking on that journey, it deserves attention and applause. Julies universe is both edgy, streetsmart and conceptual at the same time. The pockets are the main element in details as well as in silhuett, while the materials are either playing along or a lovely juxtaposition to these. The collection was shown in a room with ever moving textiles, that lent a stroke of poetry to the collection
If you wish to see all the pictures from all the collections, I direct you to Hanne Erøys www.fashioninoslo.com.